Photography

From Shaper To Surfer

Contributed by: Alex Swanson

These are some photos from a trip up to Santa Barbara to pick a new surfboard that my friend Trevor ordered from Ryan Lovelace who shapes boards up there. We left Newport at 6 a.m, arrived at his shaping room at around 9:30 am. Ryan gave us a quick tour around his room, foiled a fin, and set up Trevors board. After that, Trevor and I surfed Rincon for two hours. I wanted to capture the transition from shaper to surfer, and the first waves one his new board. As you can see, Trevor couldn’t be more happier with his board.

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I find great joy in going out and doing the things that I love to do.

Whether that means hanging out with Jessica or Tina, or taking photographs.

[Ok. Jessica and Tina are fictional to protect the identity of family, friends, and ex-girlfriends.]

Sometimes I think we spend so much time doing stuff that we NEED to do just to get by that we never are able to do the things that we LOVE to do.

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Go out and do something this week. Something that you love. For you.